Milan Fashion Week: From Gucci to Armani
- November 4, 2019
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Even those who have little knowledge about the fashion industry were unable
to miss the walking balls of fur that took to the catwalk last week during
Milan Fashion Week. Created by Alessandro Michele, the new head designer
for Gucci, the furry shoes immediately caught the industry’s attention
which led to many raised eyebrows. Armani was also able to catch the
industry by surprise during the last day of fashion week with a
head-turning garment: the skirt-pants.
In total there were 68 catwalk shows that took place during Milan Fashion
Week. “The fashion economy is back on track . It is going to be
an excellent fashion week,” said Mario Boselli, head of the Nazionale della
Moda Italiana, last week prior to the event to AFP. The Italian fashion
industry reported an increase of 3.7 percent of sales in 2014. This year
the firm expects an increase of 1.6 percent.
MFW: From Gucci’s fur shoes to Armani’s skirt-pants
The question on the catwalks was whether or not the dark fashion spotted in
New York and London would also become the new black in Milan. During New
York Fashion Week, Alexander Wang showed a winter collection which was
completely black, because that is what his customers demanded, claimed
Wang. Donna Karan also used color very sparingly, as did Tom Brown and the
Row. In London Gareth Pugh was one of the many designers to present a dark
collection, with rich fabrics and woven designs.
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Miuccia Prada was not in the mood for a dark winter it seems. The Prada
collection for Autumn-Winter 15-16 was characterized by pastel shades, as
sweet as macarons. What stood out the most however, was the double breasted
thick jersey, that ensured dresses, jackets and trousers were displayed off
the body. Prada also showed cropped pants and baby-doll tunics which were
all styled with accessories such as brooches and bably blue boots.
Gucci’s catwalk show however captured everyone’s attention, with the newly
promoted Alessandro Michele at the creative helm. For his first women’s
wear collection, which was presented on the second day of Milan Fashion
Week, there was already a buzz forming around the fashion house. The former
CEO, Patrizio di Marco, exposed the reason behind his and his partner, the
former head designer at Gucci Frida Giannini, departure. According to di
Marco, both him and his wife were removed from the fashion house via a
carefully formed exit plan.
Fresh and young fashion takes to the catwalk at Gucci
Michele showed no signs of being affected by all the commotion and instead
gracefully took leave of Giannini’s signature – understated, yet still
feminine, although not as decadent as it was under Tom Ford’s reign – and
went for a romantic, young look. There were floral prints, fringes and
transparent tops. Pink and blue skirts and dresses paired with fur
slippers, glasses and bags with bees. Hats were also dominant, which have
now become a luxury item according to the designer.
Instead of the sexy, vampish Gucci woman the industry has become accustomed
too is now a girlish, geeky women with straight hair and a little makeup.
“Sexuality is on the inside, it is a private matter,” said Michele to the
Telegraph after the show. His source of inspiration for the collection was
most likely Magot Tenebaum, from the film ‘The Royal Tenebaums’ from Wes
Anderson in 2001. There were coats, paired with flat shoes and chiffon
blouses which very reminiscent of the character, although Michele did not
go further into detailed on the matter.
Giorgio Armani presented his vision for the next season on the final day of
Milan Fashion Week, with one piece standing out from the rest – the
skirt-pants. At the front the garment appears to be spilt and consist of
two loose garments, but from behind it is clear to see that the skirt
meshes into the trousers, looking much like a pair of ordinary trousers
with a low crotch.
Armani presents fairytale evening wear
Armani also presented evening wear which took the form of Cinderella-like
dress in sparking blue and pink, very reminiscent of American high school
prom wear. For consumers who are not sixteen years old anymore, the eighty
year old designer created a series of trousers that fell wide across the
thighs and then tapered to at the ankles. He also used shawls with long
fringes as belts when needed.
Max Mara, who is best known for its outerwear, took its inspiration for its
collection from the late Marilyn Monroe, presenting tight pencil skirts and
sweater which drew attention to the breast. According to Elle, the label
also set a new coat trend: not closing the outerwear with buttons or cords
but holding it shut by hand instead. The magazine named the trend Clutchin,
adding that it gives the wearer the opportunity to show layering underneath
the coat when worn.
Rodolfo Paglialunga, who has taken over the baton from Raf Simons at Jil
Sander, elaborated on the established minimalist style the fashion house is
known for. Although he is more of a fan of prints than his predecessors.
Jeremy Scott, the chief designer at Moschino decided to swap Barbie for the
Looney Tunes, whilst Versace on the other hand showed very little
innovation. Donatella decided to give typical looks from Versace a mini
make-over, such as the Me print.
Children take to the catwalk at Dolce & Gabbana
Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana see children as the latest trend,
with pregnant model Bianca Balti being the high point of the show, im
homage to their own mothers. As usual the male design duo used a lot of
lace in the collection, as well as florals and intricate patterns.
Besides the established names taking to the catwalks in Milan, there was
also a handful of young talent presenting their work. Such as the
presentation of Arthur Arbesser, who was born in Vienna and studied at
Central Saint Martins before working for seven years at Armani prior to his
nomination for the Young Designer Award from French luxury conglomerate
LVMH. Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean also caught the industry’s
attention with her first collection presentation, with her designs catching
the attention of artist Rihanna.